Photo 1 : The useful ‘caul’ fat of the pig; 2 – My Grand Marnier Soufflé – five seconds before it collapsed; 3 – Duck Legs with roasted onions & rosemary; 4 – Having fun @South African wine dinner, Ballymaloe House; 5 – The Oxtail I cooked; 6 – Triona performing some witchcraft on my ice-cream!; 7 – warm winter salad; 8 – super Vanilla Bean ice-cream with carmellized fruit; 9 – Poached grey sea mullet; 10 & 11 – festive game and pork terrines; 12 – Aine cutting a steak; 13 – Pumpkins; 14 – A well-baked bakewell tart; 15 – a plate of locally smoked fish
I am home alone in my little cottage today, very sick with the flu, nursing a burnt finger and praying that I make a speedy recovery as the days are turning into weeks, and I only have less that 3 weeks left before the end of course. I don’t want to miss a second of it! Two of my housemates visited me at lunchtime, which was very nice as I was starting to feel a little lonely,with only our resident little mouse to keep me company (yes, seriously!) They came bearing the fruits of the morning spent in the kitchen – delicious beefburgers, homemade sausages and sticky toffee pudding. What a service! I could only manage little nibbles of this feast, which confirms the fact that I am truly sick – oh dear
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Anyway, enough about me…. more about cooking! Since my last post, the pace and complexity of the cooking has stepped up a notch or two, and we have been cooking some super dishes, including some real classics, so important to get those right! To the joy of the many commited carnivores on the course, we had a day dedicated to all things steak – how to cut steaks from a big joint of meat (a lesson given by course butcher), how to prepare them, how to cook them (obviously!) and a small but perfectly suited group of accompaniments. So, I made sirloin with Bearnaise, french fries and french fried onions. Other options were steak au poivre, steak with salsa verde, steak with blue cheese butter, steak with chimchurri…. all the classics were covered. Also, interestingly, and something I have been doing incorrectly for some time now – steak only requires a rub of garlic (not for the garlic taste but to bring out the meat flavour) and some pepper as a ‘marinade’, no oil or salt until ready to cook – rub the eat with a little bit of oil just before putting onto a very very hot grill pan, and salt only as turning the steaks, to avoid any ‘shock’, and hence toughness. Oh and Santie if you are reading, I would like a very heavy grill pan in my stocking please!!
Keeping with the beef theme, we made some fantastic stews, including beef bourgignon, Italian beef stew, steak and kidney pie, and Oxtail stew – I made the latter, I have attatched a photo of the oxtail, which was quite a challenge to prepare and not the most appetising-looking either, I am sure you will agree … A few months ago I would have gone running for cover! While there is not that much meat on it, what is there is really delicious, and this being one of the cheapest cuts of meat, it is certainly worth having a few recipes up the sleeve.
We also learned all about beef suet, which as many of you might know, but I certainly didn’t, is the fat that covers the kidneys, and there is alot of it! This is rendered down to become beef dripping/suet, which in the past has had so many different uses in the kitchen, from adding flavour to meat dishes and pies, making pastry, making Christmas sweet mincemeat, adding a protective seal to insulate all kinds of relishes and jams, and of course for simply cooking in. For our steak and chips day, we cooked the chips in beef dripping, and they were delicious. Given that this is a by-product of all the beef meat we eat, it seems a shame that we don’t use it anymore, though I think I have been converted to its charms!
On the subject of useful animal bits ‘n’ pieces, on Friday we were given a beefburger demonstration, nice and easy for a Friday afternoon! Darina showed us how to use pork caul fat to wrap around beefburgers, sealing them and giving them extra flavour. I have attached a photo of this caul fat – it looks like a lacey, gossamer sheet and is really quite beautiful! Try to forget that it comes from the outside of digestive organs of the pig… anyway, again this is very very cheap, a butcher would possibly even give it for free, and has many uses – helping burgers keep their shape, and especially for adding flavour to roast meats, particularly leaner cuts. Go and get some!
Despite the terrifically stormy weather, we have been getting quite a lot of fish, and so I have added a number of fish recipes to my repitoire. Of particular interest was grey sea mullet, a new fish for me, which we served with delicately-flavoured herd butters; and classic sauces for fish such as beurre blanc and beurre rouge – very impressive and really quite simple to make.
I have tackled some tricky recipes, though the longer I am here the more I realise that nothing is difficult, it is just a matter of common sense, seasoning (correctly and often), and having reasonably good taste buds. I made two souffles (real ones this time!) – an Ardsallagh Goat Cheese and thyme leaf, and a sweet Grand Marnier – both were super & not at all difficult, which made me wonder what all the fuss is about! I also made ravioli stuffed butternut squash, it takes quite a bit of work but is not difficult at all, though a pasta rolling machine is essential. I am looking forward to experimenting with fillings for stuffed pasta when I get home.
Other favourites over the past two weeks were duck confit with puy lentils, some fantastic warm winter salads, the smoothest, finest ice-cream in the world, and BREAD of course …. I was especially happy with my ciabatta and ‘milk dough loaf’. Making my vanilla bean ice-cream last week, my teacher decided it would be fun to add some dry ice to the mixture, a la Heston I guess… The creamy custard mixture froze instantly as soon as the dry ice was poured into it, though with big lumps of ice so cold it made my tongue tingle ferociously… don’t try that at home is my advice!
We also had our second lecture by Blathnaid Bergin, on the ‘Business of Food’ – it was great to be reminded that it is possible to make money with food! People will always need to eat, after all….
An ex-Ballymaloe student, Tiffany Goodall, gave us a brief talk last Friday – she has written two very successful cookbooks, cleverly tapping into a niche in the market, students and newly graduated people. She deserves her success as she is a brilliant cook and a very nice person… aaah!
Outside of the school, there has been lots going on to keep us amused. The Grainstore at Ballymaloe House hosts some really interesting events, and I went to see that ol’ crooner Finbar Furey there last Sunday night – he is a fantastic entertainer, had us in stitches laughing one minute and nearly crying with emotion the next. I also visited the Tannery in Dungarven with some of my classmates, we had a fantastically delicious lunch and a tour of their small cookery school & garden – we were so impressed with the place – the atmosphere, the design, the food, the ethos – I LOVE the Tannery! Will be planning a trip back with friends/family soon I hope….next time to stay the night. We enjoyed a ‘wine’ evening hosted by a South African winemaker in Ballymaloe House last week, he was very generous with his wine and his stories and it was a terrific evening – so good to see our classmates out of chefs’ whites! And this weekend, some of our classmates held Thanksgiving dinner in their cottage, all in aid of charity – a super effort, making delicious food for about 30 people – not bad after 10 weeks @ Ballymaloe
And mulled wine was served in jam jars – so much better than plastic cups for a party, I will certainly be stealing that tip!
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Thanks so much for reading, hope you enjoyed…
Fiona XXX


























































